vendredi 21 janvier 2011

More about Margiela's "Première" collection.

This season the ‘Première’ collection - the collection ahead of the défilé - revolves around the idea of contrast, division and simplicity. The collection is clean and minimalistic in detail, focusing on stereotype masculine dress versus feminine, outerwear versus loungewear, large versus fitted volumes (divided graphically at the waist), and a play on contrasting materials.

Men’s wear versus the classic female wardrobe; outerwear inspired by men’s military or work wear is contrasted when worn with feminine pieces, like a Replica cocktail dress in bonded satin reinterpreting a woman’s nightgown. Other classic pieces deriving from loungewear have also been replicated in differing materials, like the men’s pajamas realized in leather and a dressing gown interpreted in lamb shearling.

‘Double volume’; a series inspired by the idea of dividing the silhouette into horizontal slices, playing with superposition and layering. A large volume in the upper half contrasts the close fit of the lower. For a fur coat, the effect is achieved by using long-hair goat fur in the top half, and shorn rabbit fur on the lower. A series of garments with wide detachable belts emphasize the graphic division of the body at the waist. The play on volume is echoed in the 'micro' and 'macro' series of cropped and elongated jackets and knitwear.

Contrasting materials, ‘bi-material’ garments and fabric applications; a wool coat is appliquéd with rabbit fur or shiny satin contrasting its matt texture. A ‘bi-material’ dress, top and skirt have fronts in soft lamb leather and knitted backsides.

Subdued colors of black, grey, ivory, brown, khaki and beige are injected accents of fuchsia, red and rust. 

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