vendredi 24 septembre 2010


Jerry Hall at Studio 54 in the 70s and Grace Jones at the Limelight 10 years later. In between, Andy Warhol’s Factory, Pop Art’s crazy colors, Halston’s impeccable style, the sporty but glitzy glamour of the decade that gave birth to aerobics, body-building, awareness of physique as a collective need.

All of this can be found in the fi rst Pinko by Mark Fast collection, presented at the Church of San Carporforo in Milan on September 23rd from 6,30 p.m. thru 9,30 p.m. in a special event presented by Etienne Russo of Villa Eugénie, the world’s premier fashion events coordinator. There are seamless dresses, ultra-mini or very long, with necklines adorned with sets of metal rings. Other dresses appear like transparent sheaths and thanks to an ingenious drawstring system drape the
body like a second skin.

There are knits in ultra-shiny cotton with Olympic-swimsuit necklines, sweatshirt pouch pockets and ribbed cuffs, as well as spectacular palazzo-pant jumpsuits in Mylar, a laminate which gives textiles a “foil” effect. T-shirts and sleeveless tops to wear with basics in jersey (leggings et al) are covered in sequins, becoming a kind of soft, shiny armour. And over all these items - mixing past with future - oversized K-ways (a type of lightweight mac) are worn, reminiscent of evening capes
in translucent nylon organza and colours taken from Warhol’s iconic women. The saturated tones of fuchsia, mint, pale gold, silver and black seen in portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Debbie Harry travel from clothes to accessories in a skillful play of shiny-opaque in the materials.

The cultivation of creativity is the aim of Pinko’s latest project, which begins with a capsule collection (50 garments plus a dozen accessories) designed by Mark Fast, a 29-year-old Canadian arriving on the international scene via the London catwalk. The latest strategy of Pinko – the ready-to-wear brand founded in the late 80s by Pietro Negra and Cristina Rubini – is to work with talented young designers in the creation of experimental fashion pieces, combining pure creativity with business sense. “Mark really knows knitwear, plus he has a very feminine style, both sensual and subtly rebellious”, explains Pietro Negra.

“We’ve optimized our production processes and made great technical efforts to mass-manufacture his prototypes without losing that perfect quality/price ratio by which the market has always acknowledged us.”

The Pinko by Mark Fast collection will be at an accessible price range while responding to the demands of a premium clientele, starting with ultra-selective retailers (about a hundred shops worldwide).

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